The Origins of the Oxford Shirt

What is an Oxford Shirt?

An Oxford Shirt is a classic British shirt style with roots stretching back over 100 years. What sets it apart is its distinctive fabric. In the 19th century, a Scottish mill developed four unique weaving techniques, each named after a prestigious university: Harvard, Yale, Cambridge, and Oxford. While the first three have been lost to history, the Oxford weave became popular for shirting and remains a menswear wardrobe staple today.

Its lasting appeal lies in its basketweave construction, which interlaces equal numbers of warp threads with contrasting weft threads. This technique creates a subtle checkerboard texture that is soft and highly durable, and gives the shirt its distinctive style.

From the Polo Field to Hollywood

The Oxford shirt traces its origins to the polo field. Players valued the fabric’s strength and durability, making it ideal for the demands of the sport, and appreciated the shirt’s athletic yet formal design, which made it perfect for wearing in the clubhouse after games. The traditional button-down collar originated on the polo field too as a practical measure to prevent the collar from flapping during the match.

In the late 19th century, an American discovered the style in England while watching a polo match. Recognising its appeal, he introduced it to America, where its relaxed yet refined look resonated with the country’s less formal dress codes. The Oxford shirt quickly gained popularity, and by the 1950s, it had become a staple of Ivy League style, usually worn with jackets and ties. By the 1960s, it had reached Hollywood and beyond, embraced by menswear icons like Paul Newman, Miles Davis, and Steve McQueen. It was also endorsed in Europe, with the likes of Alain Delon and Gianni Agnelli appreciating its effortless blend of sophistication, ease and comfort.

Why the Sunspel Oxford Shirt is Special

Sunspel is renowned for perfecting classic British styles, drawing on over 150 years of fabric expertise to create exceptionally comfortable contemporary pieces. Traditionally, Oxford shirts were made from thick, heavy cotton of lower quality. However, our reinterpretation elevates the style with the softest long-staple cotton yarn, carefully spun for both durability and comfort.  

Our lightweight basketweave fabric, crafted by one of Italy’s finest mills using over a century of expertise, is double-washed for extra softness. With an impeccable cut, our Oxford shirt stays true to the style’s heritage—featuring the signature buttoned collar and chest pocket—while offering a refined, effortless, and contemporary look.

Styling the Oxford Shirt

The Oxford shirt’s enduring appeal lies in its versatility. As suited to wearing with a jacket and tie as with shorts, it is this that has kept it a cornerstone of menswear for generations. For a refined yet casual look, we recommend layering it over a Q14 Cellular Cotton Vest. The texture of the mesh adds some visual interest, subtly breaking up the shirt’s structured lines, while also allowing air to circulate to keep you cool. When dressing up, the Oxford’s smart-casual look pairs perfectly with the soft, contemporary lines of our unstructured casual tailoring range.